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Do you need a visa to travel to Antarctica?

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If you are planning to embark in an amazing polar expedition, one of the most important things to have ready for the adventure is the necessary documentation to travel. When you are traveling internationally, a passport is essential! Make sure your passport is valid not only for the duration of your trip, but for at least six (6) months following your intended travel dates.

Although a visa is not required to set foot on the White Continent, most expeditions depart either from Ushuaia, Argentina or Punta Arenas, Chile. Hence, you might need a visa while you are in transit, or if you want to spend a couple of days in any of these countries before or after your voyage. Depending on your citizenship you might need a visa, so it is strongly recommended that you check with the local embassy to make any necessary arrangements ahead of time.

Note: The information below is valid at time of writing (July 2018), but these visas & fees change frequently. We recommend you re-check before traveling!

 For stays of three months or less in Chile or Argentina: US, UK, Australian, Canadian and Chinese citizens do not need a visa. Since regulations change frequently we recommend you double check they prevail when you intend to travel.

Some countries may not require a visa to enter, but they may charge tourists a reciprocity fee. Make sure you have checked if you need to pay a reciprocity fee, because some countries such as Argentina require you to pay it online before arriving to the country.

US, UK and Canadian citizens are exempt from paying this reciprocity fee when entering either Chile or Argentina. Nevertheless, Australian citizens have to pay a USD $117 reciprocity fee at the airport when they arrive in Chile by air (notice that when traveling by land this payment is not required). In Chile, this fee can be paid either by credit card or in US dollars.

As we’ve said a few times, these regulations change frequently, so this is just a guide! Our team is here to help you make sure you have the correct documentation before you come south.

Transitioning to Antarctica: What It’s Like to Sail the Drake

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Author Melissa Goldin on a zodiac excursion in the white continent.

It was the raviolis that broke me.

“If I have to throw up, where should I do that?” I asked Andy, one of the three crew members aboard our 19-day sailing expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula.

Nonplussed, he pointed outside. I nodded, but didn’t get up. It seemed unlikely that I’d be able to get my coat on, wriggle into my lifejacket, and attach myself to the deck before my lunch ended up all over Icebird, our six-passenger, high-latitude sailing yacht. Andy seemed to sense this in my hesitation.

“Do you have time?” he asked. I shook my head. “Go, just go,” he urged me, and I stumbled out the door, onto the deck of the pitching vessel.

As I emptied my stomach over the port side, Andy grabbed the back of my sweatshirt so I wouldn’t follow my upchuck into the waves. Once the nausea had subsided, I sat on the deck, staring vacantly at the horizon, my lifejacket finally on and hooked to the boat.

The Icebird on its way to Antarctica across the Drake.

This is life on the Drake Passage — 600 miles of tempestuous waters connecting Cape Horn, the southernmost point of South America, to Antarctica — one of the roughest bodies of water in the world. It’s unavoidable for most tourists unless they fly round-trip to the great white desert. In a large cruise ship, a crossing typically takes two to three days. It took us six — six days of hardly anything but ocean, birds, and sky; six of the most tedious, most soul-sucking, most uncomfortable days of my life. But it was worth it.

In the midst of a solo, five-month journey through South America, I’d shown up in Ushuaia, Argentina on the off-chance I would be able to find a discounted, last-minute trip to the seventh continent. Luck was on my side: I scored a spot on Icebird, sight unseen, with just three other passengers.

I knew the Drake would be rough, especially on a small boat, but I saw it as a means to an end — a challenge on the way to our destination. Instead, it was a period of transition that set the tone for the entire trip. I was quickly removed from the modern world and transported to an alternate universe with no Internet, no distractions and no one but the strangers with whom I was traveling. My perception of reality slowed and I started to focus on minute details with unrelenting concentration — how the cape petrels would take a running start on the water before taking off and how the never-ending ocean made it feel like we were literally on top of the world (or perhaps the bottom). World War Three could have started and I wouldn’t have known.

After three days, we saw another sailboat. The mast was only a thin, black line on the horizon at first, but it was my top priority for half an hour as we watched it draw closer at an excruciatingly slow pace. I wondered who was on board and whether they were as excited to see us as we were to see them. It was my tether to the rest of the world, a much-appreciated break in the waves, until it disappeared to the north.

“That was the most exciting thing that’s ever happened to me,” I said to no one in particular as it passed.

But the novelty of the Drake soon wore thin. I got so fed up with the nothingness that I started cursing out the bathroom every time a big wave threw me off the toilet and napping as much as I could so as to simply do something other than stare out the window in a stupor. We were tossed around so much I could barely read or write and my hair got greasier each day I had to go without a shower. The monotony was broken only by good meals and when idle chatter turned deep (or silly).

Arrival in Antarctica!

And then everything stopped. There was no more rocking, no more splashing, no more nausea. Gentoo penguins squawked no more than 30 feet away, the bright reds and blues of two small buildings contrasted with the pure white of the snow and a cruise ship lingered in the distance, obscured by fog. It had never taken me so long to get anywhere and I thought about the early Antarctic explorers who’d really had it rough what with scurvy, starvation, and countless other hardships. Compared to them, with our GPS, motor and fresh vegetables, we’d gone for a pleasant jaunt around the lake, but it still felt as though we’d earned our anchorage.

As our plane back to civilization landed in Punta Arenas, Chile two weeks later I marveled at the miracle that is modern air travel. It took us six days to get to Antarctica and only two hours to get back. I had no desire to return to the Drake and was grateful a hot shower was finally within reach, but our arrival felt like a non-event — merely a blip on the way to my hostel. We were getting convenience over self-reflection. The nausea, however, was not missed.

Melissa Goldin is a writer and editor from Brooklyn, N.Y. who just returned home from a five-month trip through South America and Antarctica. You can contact her at goldin.melissa@gmail.com or learn more about her at melissagoldin.com.

Antarctica Bases to Know!

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Freestyle Team at Argentine Base Camara

As protected terrain, Antarctica remains largely untouched by humans. Yet the coldest, driest, southernmost continent still boasts a population of a few thousand, depending on the time of the year. Scientific researchers and base staffers occupy small settlements both winter and summer alike. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to disembark at one of these isolated points of civilization on your Antarctic voyage.

There are dozens of bases on and around the Antarctic Peninsula, run and maintained by many different countries. In the South Shetlands, you might visit Argentine Base Camara or Chilean Frei Station. Or, farther south on the Peninsula you might visit American Palmer Station or Ukrainian base Verdansky. All of these outposts are an interesting look into life on the White Continent.

Here are three bases to learn about before you go!

PORT LOCKROY

A historic base with a gift shop and a post office, this is a popular disembarkation spot for Antarctica cruises. The fresh waters of the small natural harbor made this an ideal environment for a whaling station from 1911 until 1931. In 1944, the British government established a military base — Base A — in the east of the harbor as part of Operation Tabarin, a wartime mission to establish a British presence in Antarctica. After the war, the base operated as a research station until 1962, where researchers investigated botany, geology, meteorology, and the ionosphere.

In 1994, Base A was recognized for its historical significance, and in 2006, it opened its doors as a living museum for Antarctic travelers. A team of four maintains the base during the summer months, taking care of historic huts, running the gift shop and post office, and collecting data (mostly penguin poop!) about the effects of tourism on penguins. They stay pretty busy – the post office sends over 70,000 postcards a year!

If the weather permits a stop at Port Lockroy, make sure to get an Antarctica stamp in your passport, and send a postcard to your friends at home!

BROWN BASE

An Argentine scientific research station in Paradise Harbor, Almirante Brown Station is an excellent stop for Antarctica travelers – and a continental landing! Cruise-ship passengers may climb to the lookout point at 84m and then slide down the human bobsled course on their stomachs, and then walk to see the gentoo penguins.

Legend has it that the base’s doctor burned down the station in 1984. Outraged that the team had been asked to stay for the winter, he waited until the last supply ship was about to leave, and then burned down the building so that the ship had to take them back to Argentina.

The base was originally a naval station and meteorological observatory from 1951-1960, but then the Argentine Antarctic Institute established a full biological laboratory there in 1965. Two decades of successful research were curbed by the 1984 fire, but the base reopened for the summer season in the following years. The unique gentoo penguin species have reclaimed the area, creating a unique fusion of wildlife and human presence in Antarctica.

HOPE BASE

Though not the most common tourist destination, this Argentine research base has quite a unique story. One of just two civilian settlements in Antarctica, Hope Base maintains a population of 55 during the frigid winter months and is home to the southernmost school in the world!

Hope was founded in 1953 as a military base. Fifteen years later, seven families (researchers and technicians) formed a small community by the bay, and a school opened up to educate the youngest members of the settlement. And on January 7, baby Emilio Marcos Palma became the first person born on the continent. During the rush to lay (symbolic) claim to Antarctica, Argentina sent a pregnant woman to Esperanza Base in retaliation to a visit to Antarctica by Augusto Pinochet, then dictator of Chile.

Today, the Escuela Provincial Nº 38 Raúl Ricardo Alfonsín is an Argentine school educating students from daycare through high school through a long-distance military education program. The base’s young residents also participate in the world’s southernmost scout troupe, Grupo Scouts 1556.

Each Antarctic base has a story of its own, and a visit to these stations is often a highlight of a voyage to the peninsula!

24 Hours in Punta Arenas

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Punta Arenas, Chile, a port city in the Magallanes region of Chilean Patagonia, is the second most important access point to Antarctica in South America. Antarctica voyages depart here to the South Shetland Islands via charter flight. A colorful town along the coast, Punta Arenas is the perfect place to enjoy a day or two before embarking on a trip to Cape Horn or a fly-trip Antarctica. Here are some things to do before you embark!

WALK THE TOWN

Take a stroll around the city center to see the historic Plaza de Armas. Make a wish and kiss the foot of the famous “Indio Desconocido,” an enigmatic indigenous man fabled to have miraculous powers. Enter the Palacio Sara Braun museum for $2,000 Chilean pesos to learn more about the city’s early history. Stroll up the Avenida Cristobal Colón, and find a full view of the city at the top. Punta Arenas is also full of street art, so keep an eye out for the many murals you’re sure to find!

Don’t forget to apply sunscreen before your walk – there’s a hole in the ozone layer above Punta Arenas, and the sun hits strong!

EXPLORE THE CEMETERY

If you’re a fan of ornate Latin American cemeteries, you’ll love the municipal cemetery of Punta Arenas. Lose yourself among the tall, oblong cypress trees that line mausoleums dotted with flowers and pinwheels. Visit the resting sites of the region’s most influential pioneers and immigrants, as well as monuments to fallen soldiers and the “Indio Desconocido.” Note that this is not just a historical cemetery, so be respectful to visiting families!

WALK AMONG PENGUINS

For many visitors, the 4-5 hour excursion to the penguin colony of Magdalena Island is a highlight of their stay in Punta Arenas. A ferry cruise will bring you past sea lions to a colony of over 150,000 Magellanic penguins – a species found only in this part of the world and in the Falklands. For penguin fanatics, this is a great opportunity to see this unique species. But if you’re on a budget, skip the tour and get excited for the great variety of penguins you’ll see in Antarctica! Cape Horn travelers: you’ll stop at Magdalena Island on your journey.

GO SHOPPING

Punta Arenas has a large tax-free commercial district, ideal for purchasing last-minute Antarctica gear or stocking up for camping trips after your journey. It’s quite a bit cheaper than shopping in Argentina and also offers a wider variety of imported products. For longtime backpackers, this is a great place to find food products (read: peanut butter) otherwise scarce in Latin America. Visit the Líder supermarket (Chilean Walmart) for all kinds of cheap buys, and then head down to the Zona Franca shopping complex for a variety of goods, including camping supplies, electronics, imported chocolates, and just about anything else you might need.

ENJOY A MEAL

Treat yourself to a dinner at the lively La Marmita – with a colorful interior, plenty of vegetarian options, and delicious cocktails, this is a great spot to enjoy an evening. Don’t forget to bring cash!

For a cheap meal, head over to the home-y Sabores de Mamá, where you can get an appetizer, entree, dessert, and beverage for $5,000 chilean pesos. Their cozy atmosphere and warm service make for a delightful experience.

Take a break in a café for a couple hours: Imago Libro Arte Café, right on the shore, offers gorgeous views and a shelves full of books to peruse, or take advantage of the free Wifi and yummy pastries at Café Tostado.

Freestyle gives “1% for the Planet.” What does that mean?

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Antarctica is the world’s last great wilderness. The white continent’s unique geography and fauna are novel for even the most experienced traveler, which is why the remote region attracts over 30,000 visitors a year. Such a singular ecosystem requires careful preservation in order to be sustained.

Although melting Arctic ice receives much attention in the media, climate change also directly affects the wildlife and terrain of Antarctica. These changes will have great repercussions throughout the planet. As a business founded based on our passion for Antarctica and the great outdoors, we feel compelled to protect the environment.

Therefore, we have committed to contributing 1 percent of our earnings to environmental causes. In April 2014, we joined “1% for the Planet,” an alliance of businesses around the world who pledge 1% of their sales to approved environmentally-focused organizations. Started in 2002 by Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard and Craig Matthews, Blue Ribbon Flies founder, the network comprises over 1,200 businesses and thousands of nonprofit partners in over 60 countries. To date, 1% for the Planet business partners have collectively given over $175 million. We are proud to be a part of this movement to build a healthy planet.

For the past three seasons, we have split our 1% contribution between two organizations: Yadkin Riverkeeper (Winston-Salem, NC) and the Antarctic and Southern Ocean Coalition (ASOC). These selections reflect our organization’s values as an American business promoting exploration of the Antarctic.

Yadkin Riverkeeper is a non-profit organization with the mission to protect and preserve the Yadkin Pee Dee River Basin through education, advocacy, and action. We recognize the importance of local action to make a difference, and we have seen first-hand the impactful work of the Yadkin Riverkeeper. Sarah’s brother Will has worked for this nonprofit as a lawyer and riverkeeper for the past years, and we remain impressed by the results of their projects.

The second recipient, ASOC, is a coalition of over 30 NGOs interested in Antarctic environmental protection. As the only non-governmental organization working full-time to preserve Antarctica and the surrounding Southern Ocean, this organization achieved early victories in protecting the region from exploitation by mineral and gas companies. Today, the ASOC is concerned with issues of tourism, shipping, and climate change in the Antarctic.

As a tour agency, we hope to bring people to the furthest corners of the world on journeys that are sustainable and respectful to the environment. Therefore, we only work with ships that are members of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), a regulatory body which ensures that trips to the Antarctic are safe and environmentally responsible.

We love sending people to the magical, white landscape of Antarctica, where they can witness a topography unlike any other. This is why we are aligned with organizations like 1% for the Planet and IAATO: to ensure that this incredible region retains its vibrancy for years to come.

A Day in the Life of an Expedition Leader

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A Day in the Life

Your Expedition Leader will wake you up in the morning, coordinate navigation details with the bridge and meal times with the hotel manager, plan shore activities with the Expedition Team…In brief, you will see the EL run up and down the ship, drive zodiacs, welcome you ashore, inform you about shore activities during the evening briefings…Sometimes believed to have a twin on board, they are lucky to have an assistant EL and great expedition staff to help run the operations!

The alarm goes off half an hour before wake up time…

Enough time for me to have a quick chat with the officer on watch and collect information about our location and weather to prepare for the popular wake up call. A sip of coffee and off goes the “Ding- Dong, Good Morning, Good  Morning…”

A run through the emails allows me to check if the rest of the fleet has updated their itinerary, or for me to send a quick mail to do so. To respect wilderness etiquette, all EL’s across the fleet communicate their intentions via email. It is best for our visits but also for the wildlife to get a rest from human presence. A quick check and update of the board is important to let the rest of the staff know if there are any changes for the morning.

Breakfast follows, often rapidly swallowed to allow for more time on the bridge and to see the arrival at our morning destination. This is important as ice and snow conditions and wildlife sightings can modify the entire plan. It’s not unusual to find a large berg on our anchorage position, spot whales,..it’s the very nature our the trip: expect the unexpected!

Expect the Unexpected

Depending on the location, there are many options as to what can be done. We may take you ashore, lead you on a hike, set a perimeter for you to wander and discover at your leisure, sit and watch penguins, take you for a Zodiac ride to get to know the coast and see more wildlife…The options are endless and highly dependent on the location and the weather- or if we are in the Arctic, we will need to ensure polar bear’s safety by sending staff scouting ahead of time. At all times, we try to minimise our impact on the place we visit!

If we are around penguins, we will encourage visitors to be quiet, walk slowly and actually sit and observe. No lecture or book can replace first-hand observation in the wild so make the most of it!!! If you are looking, you will see so much…so don’t always rely on your guides, but learn to look!

While we are ashore, the galley team is busy preparing our meals. Most vessels have a buffet for lunch that allows you to compose your own salads with a variety of fresh vegetables, a mix of hot dishes, soups, a choice of cheese, deserts and fruits…the quality of the food as well as the cold will be your best excuses to indulge – just don’t blame the cooks for being too good at their job! A month on board means I need to find my way to the gym regularly to stay fit!

We will try to schedule the afternoon outing so that those who need it can disappear for a quick nap…whales don’t always follow our plans though so be ready to be woken up! At times, the ship is the best platform for viewing wildlife so the Captain and I may choose not to lower the zodiacs and stay out on deck. If we are lucky enough to view Humpback Whales bubble-net feeding, the height of the ship will give you a much better perspective than on a zodiac.

We conclude the day with a Recap&Briefing, usually in the reverse order! I will let you know what our best possible options are for the following day, weather and ice dependent of course! It’s a good opportunity to ask questions about the operations or anything that you wonder about.  The expedition staff is on hand to answer all your queries and will also have snippets of information about the wildlife, history and geology of the places we have visited.

The Bridge

Dinner will be served and we may have a few events in the evening such as live music in the bar, a quiz or documentary in the lounge…but you will me behind the computer, filling out reports, preparing the following days and at times, even the next trip. Before I disappear in my cabin for some much needed rest, I’ll pass the bridge. It is a peaceful place, full of information and with the best view which you are more than welcome to come and enjoy unless we are facing difficult navigation conditions and the officers close the bridge to visitors.

Although most of the time we are operating in 24hrs daylight as we are so close to the poles, no amount of light can replace a good night sleep! However, if an iceberg gets in our way, a bear comes and greets the ship or northern lights start dancing in the sky, the Bridge will ring me and you will soon hear the ‘Ding-Dong,…’

Come and explore with us! Join an expedition to the Polar Regions!

– Sarah Auffret

Sarah lived at Port Lockroy base in Antarctica for 2 seasons before joining G adventures onboard the MS Expedition as an Expedition Leader.